Mascara

Mascara is a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the eyelashes. It may darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes. Normally in one of three forms—liquid, powder, or cream—the modern mascara product has various formulas; however, most contain the same basic components of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives. The most common form of mascara is a liquid in a tube. Mascara is a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the eyelashes. It may darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes. Normally in one of three forms—liquid, powder, or cream—the modern mascara product has various formulas; however, most contain the same basic components of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives. The most common form of mascara is a liquid in a tube. The Collins English Dictionary defines mascara as 'a cosmetic substance for darkening, lengthening, curling, coloring, and thickening the eyelashes, applied with a brush or rod.' The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) adds that mascara is occasionally used on the eyebrows as well. The OED also references mascaro from works published in the late 15th century. In 1886, the Peck & Snyder Catalogue advertises, 'Mascaro or Water Cosmetique... For darkening the eyebrow and moustaches without greasing them and making them prominent.' In 1890, the Century Dictionary defined mascara as 'a kind of paint used for the eyebrows and eyelashes by actors.' And in 1894, N. Lynn advises in Lynn’s Practical Hints for Making-up, 'to darken eyelashes, paint with mascara, or black paint, with a small brush.' The source of the word “mascara” is unclear. The Spanish word máscara meaning ‘mask’ or ‘stain’, and the Italian word maschera meaning ‘mask’ are possible origins. A related Catalan word describes soot or a black smear, and the Portuguese word máscara means ‘mask’ and mascarra means dark stain or smut). There is even strong support for a possible source from the Arabic word maskharah or ‘buffoon’. The Hebrew word משקרות (MaSQROTh) as relating to women's eyes is found in Isaiah 3:16. Latin treatises sometimes used the word mascara when referring to witches. Aesthetic adornment is a cultural universal and mascara can be documented in ancient Egypt. Records from around 4000 BC refer to a substance called kohl that was used to darken eyelashes, eyelids, and eyebrows. Kohl was used to mask the eyes, believed to ward off evil spirits and protect the soul, by both men and women. Often composed of galena; malachite; and charcoal or soot, crocodile stool; honey; and water was added to keep the kohl from running. Through Egypt’s influence, kohl usage persisted in the subsequent Babylonian, Greek and Roman empires. Following the fall of the Roman Empire, kohl fell into disuse on the European continent, where it had been considered solely a cosmetic; conversely, it continued to be widely used in the Middle East for religious purposes. During the Victorian era, social opinion shifted radically towards the promotion of cosmetics, and women were known to spend a majority of their day occupied with beauty regimens. Great efforts were made to create the illusion of long, dark eyelashes. Attempting this, Victorian women made a type of mascara in their own homes. They would heat a mixture of ash or lampblack and elderberry juice on a plate and apply the heated mixture to their eyelashes. The product that people would recognize as mascara today did not develop until the 19th century. A chemist named Eugène Rimmel developed a cosmetic using the newly invented petroleum jelly. The name Rimmel became synonymous with the substance and still translates to “mascara” in the Portuguese, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Romanian, and Persian languages today. Across the Atlantic Ocean and at roughly the same time, in 1915, Thomas Lyle Williams created a remarkably similar substance for his sister Mabel. In 1917 he started a mail-order business from the product that grew to become the company Maybelline.