Role of pH in Skin Cleansing

BACKGROUND The importance of maintaining the acid-mantle of human stratum corneum to maintain its healthy barrier and skin's biological functions such as desquamation and lipid biosynthesis is well recognized in the literature. An outcome of this has been an increase in the number of skincare products formulated at or near the skin pH with an implication that a product formulated at skin pH will be good for skin. Such an assumption often does not take into account the specific interactions of ingredients in the product with the stratum corneum under skin pH conditions. OBJECTIVE The objective of this research was to determine whether a skin cleansing product by virtue of its pH being same as "skin pH" is milder to skin. METHODS A well established Forearm Controlled Application Test (FCAT) protocol was used in clinical studies to compare "skin pH" cleansing systems with neutral pH cleansing systems. Specifically, certain commercially available "skin pH" cleansing bars were compared with a neutral pH syndet bar in two separate FCAT studies. Since these bars differed in their surfactant composition, in a separate FCAT study, two identical prototype bar formulations differed only in their pH were compared. Additionally, two body wash liquid prototypes, identical in composition but differing only in their pH were also compared in another FCAT study. RESULTS The results obtained showed that skin-cleansing systems formulated solely or predominantly with anionic surfactants under skin pH conditions can result in increased skin dryness and irritation compared to those under neutral pH conditions. The results are explained in terms of the increased electrostatic interaction of anionic surfactants with stratum corneum under low pH conditions compared to neutral pH conditions. CONCLUSION Skin-cleansing systems formulated solely or predominantly with anionic surfactants under skin pH conditions can result in increased skin dryness and irritation compared to those under neutral pH conditions. Any skin cleansing product by virtue of its pH being same as that of "skin pH" does not guarantee that it will be good for skin. The mildness of a cleanser will be determined by the interactions of its surfactants and other ingredients with stratum corneum under its formulated pH conditions.