Facial Expression Wrinkles and Their Relaxation by a Synthetic Peptide

Expression wrinkles form over time due to repeated facial movements such as smiling and frowning. They have an imprint on facial skin in areas such as the corner of the eyes, where they take the form of crow’s feet, the forehead and the glabella, where they appear as frown lines, and around the mouth, as marionette lines. In the study presented here, we recruited two sets of volunteers. An older group of 57 volunteers aged 50 to 65 years, and a group of eight younger volunteers aged 21–35 who were the biological daughters of eight of the older volunteers. Using VISIA CR, we took images of the volunteers in relaxed, angry and smiling mode to assess similarities in expression wrinkle patterns. In addition, the older volunteers were split into a placebo group and an active group who applied a formulation of 4% of a cosmetic product containing the peptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate (DABBA) for four weeks. Wrinkles were assessed by image analysis, expert grading and Primoslite measurements. Our study found striking similarities in the facial wrinkle patterns of mothers with relaxed faces and daughters with angry or smiling faces. We found a decrease in visible wrinkles in the group of older volunteers applying DABBA. We created a facial map for graded wrinkles showing these changes. Volunteers using the active formulation showed significantly less wrinkle area and length on the forehead when frowning compared to the placebo group (p < 0.05).